The traditional Chinese Dress, a Modern Garment
What is the name of the Chinese dresses? What are their specificities? What is their history? How do Chinese women dress then and now?
There are Chinese dresses named Qipao 旗袍 and others named Hanfu 汉服. These traditional garments have survived the centuries and are still worn all over the world.
Passionate about Chinese culture and especially the fashion of this country, so we will bring you the answers as accurately as possible.
In this article, you will discover :
- The Hanfu and its history
- The Qifu dress
- The Qipao and its characteristics
After your reading, you will know everything about Chinese dresses!
Without further ado, let’s discover together the dresses!
The Hanfu, the traditional Chinese dress
Hanfu 汉服 meaning “garment of the Han people”, is a name for the traditional clothing of the pre-17th century Han Chinese, constituting the predominant ethnic group in China.
Hanfu appeared in China over three thousand years ago and is said to have been the garment of the legendary Yellow Emperor, a great emperor of ancient China. The basis of hanfu was developed during the Shang Dynasty (1600-1000 BC).
The hanfu consisted of a yi, a narrow, knee-length tunic tied with a belt, and a narrow, ankle-length skirt called a chang, worn with a bixi, a length of fabric that reached the knees. They were made of silk and painted in red and green. From the earliest appearances, Han-Chinese clothing changed and evolved with fashion.
In the early Western Zhou Dynasty, hanfu became a method of distinguishing between classes. The height of a person’s rank influenced the level of decoration of a dress, the length of a skirt and the width of a sleeve.
Sleeves were also wider than in the Shang Dynasty period and the yi tunic was also closed with jade decorations or a belt tied around the waist. The collar was crossed and tied on the right side while skirts and pants varied in length from knee length to floor length.
The Eastern Zhou dynasty invented the shenyi – “the deep dress”, which is a combination of tunic and skirt. It was cut separately, but sewn as a piece of clothing, with the left side of the costume forming a corner that served to close the shenyi by tying it on the chest.
The shenyi could be worn by anyone, regardless of gender, profession or social class. The technology was advanced enough at that time that many intricate and beautiful patterns appeared on the Hanfu.
A complete Hanfu garment developed over time with the addition of other parts of the garment. Today, it is considered to consist of several pieces:
- Yi – any open garment with a cross neck, worn by both men and women
- Pao – any closed garment covering the whole body, worn by men
- Ru – open shirt, cross collar
- Shan – open shirt or jacket with cross collar, worn over the yi
- Qun or chang – skirt worn by women and men
- Ku – the pants
It is also considered traditional to decorate the hanfu with jade beads and pendants or various ornaments hanging from the belt or scarf, known as pei. Men’s hats and women’s hairpieces could also be traditionally worn in combination with the hanfu. These headgear marked profession or social rank.
Hanfu disappeared at the beginning of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) which was founded, not by the Han Chinese who formed the majority of China’s population, but by the Manchus, a semi-nomadic people who first became famous in Manchuria. The Qing Dynasty fell in 1911 and Manchu costume quickly disappeared in favor of Western-style costume.
Today, most Han Chinese wear western style clothes and the hanfu is rarely worn. However, the hanfu is still worn during certain festivals and rituals. For example, it is not uncommon to see people wearing a hanfu at a wedding or while walking in a park.
The Chinese Qifu Dress
Qifu is called “Yijie” in the Manchu language, and in ancient times generally refers to the clothes worn by men and women of the eight banners of the Manchu, Mongol and Han armies.
The cut is relatively simple, the shape of the clothes is a round collar, narrow sleeves, long slits, a wide front and back tab, and four pieces of tailoring. The characteristics of this type of clothing are determined by the lifestyle of the Manchu people.
In order to facilitate activities such as riding and dismounting horses and archery, the clothes are in this form. It is worth mentioning a special decoration called “horseshoe sleeves”. Named because of the horseshoe shape attached to the sleeves.
After the Manchus gradually separated from the riding and archery career, the Manchus lowered their horseshoe sleeves to show a kind of etiquette to pay tribute to the elders and venerable ones.
At the same time, in order to respect the aesthetic of clothing, Manchu women will embroider lace embroideries of different colors on the collar, front and cuffs. Among the clothes, there is a female garment called “big sleeves”.
This type of garment is embroidered with designs in the sleeves, and the beautiful designs can be displayed when the sleeves are turned over. Some bands of flowers or colorful buds are inlaid on the neckline, placket or sleeves of the garment.
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The Qipao, the modern Chinese dress
The qipao 旗袍, also known as cheongsam or Chinese dress, is the traditional clothing of Chinese women in China and the world, and is known as the quintessential Chinese and national costume of women.
Regarding the origin of the qipao, this traditional Chinese garment, there are three stories.
The first one goes back to the Zhou and Qin dynasties. According to this one, Han dresses appeared two thousand years ago, like “the narrow linen jacket of the Western Zhou Dynasty or the clothes of the pre-Qin”. However, Manchu dresses are more like a broad and rather formal outfit.
The other two stories are more popular. Some believe that the qipao originated from the dresses of Qing Dynasty girls, and some focus on the post-Republic of China era in the 1920s.
The qipao would therefore have been formed in the 1920s. Some scholars believe that its origin dates back to the Shenyi in the pre-Qing and Han dynasties. Although the origin is unclear, everyone agrees that the creation of this garment is one of the most splendid phenomena of Chinese clothing culture.
After experiencing the 1911 Revolution, women cut their hair and wore dresses like men. Newspapers at the time reported, “Women today have cut their hair, spread their feet and wear dresses.”
The fashion trend of this period was dominated by modern girls and socialites. Their unconventional Chinese dresses immediately triggered a rush to Shanghai. From dignitaries to students and working women, the cheongsam became the dress for social occasions and diplomatic activities.
The cheongsam became the most common women’s dress after the 1920s in the Republic of China and was identified as one of the national dresses by the government of the Republic of China in 1929.
After experiencing the 1911 Revolution, women cut their hair and wore dresses like men. Newspapers at the time reported, “Women today have cut their hair, spread their feet and wear dresses.”
The fashion trend of this period was dominated by modern girls and socialites. Their unconventional Chinese dresses immediately triggered a rush to Shanghai. From dignitaries to students and working women, the cheongsam became the dress for social occasions and diplomatic activities.
The cheongsam became the most common women’s dress after the 1920s in the Republic of China and was identified as one of the national dresses by the government of the Republic of China in 1929.
After the 1950s, Chinese dress was gradually neglected, especially during the Cultural Revolution, it was criticized as “feudal filth” and “bourgeois sentiment”.
After the 1980s, with the re-emphasis of traditional culture, as well as the influence of film and television culture, fashion shows, beauty pageants, etc., Chinese dress has been gradually revived not only on the mainland, but also in various fashion venues around the world.
From the clothes of Manchu women to the new clothes of the Republic of China period, they reflect the changes in mentality over time. Women’s liberation, the pursuit of individual freedom, and women coming out of their homes must fight for their own independence and national liberation.
Characteristic of the Chinese qipao dress
Through the qipao, we can see the cultural exchange in China, which is not only the exchange between Han nationality and ethnic minorities, but also the cultural exchange between China and foreign countries in the modern era.
The modern Chinese dress looks more like the integration of Chinese clothes and Western civilization. Compared with the dresses of the Manchu and Qing dynasties, the body is wider, the lines are straight, the bottom is long to the feet and the lace is straight.
After entering the 1920s, cheongsam absorbed the characteristics of European and American clothing, which pay attention to the fit and the pursuit of beauty while curved. They creatively narrowed the cuffs and sleeves of the dress, until finally reaching a sleeveless dress on the shoulders, which brings full charm. The collar of the cheongsam also changes from top to bottom, which enhances the graceful figure of the woman.
In the era of Manchu cheongsam, bound by feudal ethics, a woman’s figure could not be exposed. The straight lines, full body and slitless hem were all hallmarks of that era. Compared to the modern cheongsam, the cheongsam of the Manchu Qing Dynasty has more characteristics of distinction.
A woman of the royal family could wear yellow, use floral materials, bright colors, exquisite materials and special scroll decoration. In addition, the embroidery of dragons, lions, phoenix cranes, plum trees, orchids, bamboo and chrysanthemums are really beautiful.
The style of the qipao is based on an opening on the right side, high collar and button, side slits and body with sleeves. The cheongsam of the 1920s, made of silk or satin, still did not get rid of the wide and straight style, but only slimmed down at the shoulders and waist. “The cheongsam of the early days is cold and straight, with a puritanical style.”
In the 1930s and 1940s, cheongsam entered a golden period of development. In search of liberation, simplicity and generosity, light, natural and intellectual tones. The students of this era used their youthful vigor to lead a new fashion cycle. So the fashion of this era is to wear a modern qipao, wear earrings, bracelets, rings, etc.
There are many styles of Chinese dresses, including Ruyi dress, Pipa dress, slant dress, high neck, low neck, collarless, long sleeve, short sleeve, sleeveless, high slit, low slit… There are also differences in the length of cheongsam: short cheongsam, long cheongsam and simple cheongsam.
The general style of the clothes reflects the female curves. Compared to other garments of the same period, the qipao has characteristics of lighter and thinner fabrics, more printed fabrics and simpler decoration.
The qipao, a modern dress
Due to the high degree of professional socialization of urban women and the fast pace of life, women like clothes with simple lines, bright styles and very practical. In fact, the Chinese dress meets the real needs of women, it is accordingly the result of comprehensive reforms in terms of length, size, slits and color of the old-style cheongsam.
The changes in this style, such as the height of the collar, the short length of the sleeves and the height of the slits, make the qipao completely get rid of the old-fashioned style and change the old habits of Chinese women, such as wrapping the chest with a cloth for example.
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