Traditional Chinese Clothing
History of Chinese Costumes
Historians have discovered Chinese clothing dating from the Paleolithic era, about 1.7 million years ago! Much more rudimentary, these clothes are however only distant ancestors of those we know today.
They were then made of animal skins, and decorated with stones and animal teeth. Clothes resembling traditional Chinese outfits only appeared much later, about 5000 years ago, created by Huángdì, the Yellow Emperor. By the time of the Shang Dynasty (1700 B.C. – 1046 B.C.), the basic features of traditional Chinese clothing had already appeared, as well as the traditional patterns.
Only later, during the Zhou Dynasty (1046-256 BC), long gown-like dresses appeared, and for thousands of years were as popular as long blouses and skirts for both women and men.
The formation of the Republic of China (1912 – 1949) marked an important turning point in the history of traditional Chinese clothing. Mao suits (or Zhongshan suits) became the norm for men, and Qipaos (also called Cheongsams) for women. At the beginning of the People’s Republic of China, this traditional costume also became popular among Chinese women. Then, during the 1970s, when the country was opening up, Chinese people gradually adopted a Western style of dress.
Meaning of the characteristics of Chinese Traditional Clothing
The meaning of the main characteristics and patterns of traditional clothing have evolved over time. For example, black was considered a dignified color and reserved for the high castes during the Xia Dynasty (207 to 1600 BC), while white was considered more appropriate during the Shang Dynasty, and red during the Zhou Dynasty. The clothes worn also strongly depended on social status, political positions, or profession.
For example, dragon embroidery and bright yellow are usually reserved for emperors. During the Tang Dynasty (618 – 907), purple was reserved for officers of the 5th rank or higher, while during the Qing Dynasty (1644 – 1911), the richer and more socially prominent a person was, the more embroidery was used on their clothes.
Some Typical Chinese Clothing
Clothing trends change over time and regions, and each minority and ethnic group has its own codes. However, there are several types of traditional clothing that are particularly popular.
Hanfu (汉服)
Hanfu is a traditional Asian garment used by the Hans between the coronation of the Yellow Emperor (2698 BC) and the Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644). It was particularly popular during the Han Dynasty, between 206 B.C. and 220 A.D. “Fu” meaning garment, Hanfu refers directly to the clothes worn by the Hans who popularized and improved Chinese fashion during this period.
Hanfus are long tunics, with a crossed collar whose right lapel passes over the left one. Rather loose, the dress has long sleeves, and there are no buttons, the tunic being held by a belt. Although quite simple in style, this silk garment often looks quite dramatic, sometimes epic, because of the resulting drape.
Qipao (旗袍)
Qipaos, also called Cheongsams, are women’s clothing inherited from the Manchus. Still very popular today, they have evolved to adapt to Western dress codes, and exist, for example, in a halter version. This Chinese dress has a Mao collar most often straight, sometimes crossed, is tight at the waist, and has short sleeves.
Closed at the collar with buttons, the dress is usually slit on both sides. The Qipao is usually made of silk, but sometimes also of cotton or linen. This tight-fitting dress is one of the most popular Chinese garments among Westerners, who consider it sexy and elegant.
Tangzhuang (唐装)
This traditional Chinese garment, called Tangzhuang, or sometimes Mandarin suit, is a combination of the style of a male Manchu jacket, typical of the Qing Dynasty, and a more Western suit. The Mao collar is usually straight with a “Brandenburg” fastening. The colors used and the design are traditional Chinese style, but the fabrics are more western.
Mao suit (中山裝)
The traditional Mao costumes, also called Zhongshan Zhuang or Yat-Sen costumes, were created by Doctor Sun Yat-Sen, combining a traditional Chinese style and a Western style, not only this time in the fabric used. Indeed, the Western influence is felt especially in the aesthetics of the suit itself.
The Mao suit has an officer collar and four pockets with flaps. As Mao Zedong himself wore it very frequently, the Zhongshan Zhuang became for Westerners, the Mao suit.
It was the basic wardrobe for men during the People’s Republic of China from 1949 to the 1980s. Political leaders still wear them very frequently nowadays, as a traditional outfit, during celebrations or special events such as military parades.
Imperial Dress (袞龍袍)
The Chinese imperial dress is also called Longpao or sometimes Dragon Dress because of the dragons traditionally embroidered on it. It can only be worn by the Emperor, and this, from the Tang Dynasty (618 – 907). The dragon has a strong imperial symbolism, representing power and wisdom, and could, just like the bright yellow color that the imperial robe usually carries, only be worn by the Emperor.
Traditional Chinese wedding dress
The traditional ceremonial dress varies widely according to the different dynasties and regions. However, a red dress is generally preferred. Indeed, red is a real lucky charm for the future couple and symbolizes good fortune and luck in China. In the North of China, during a traditional Chinese wedding, one traditionally wears a red Qipao dress, embroidered with golden decorations.
In the South on the other hand, a Chinese woman will prefer to wear a long two-piece wedding dress, which is called Qungua (裙褂). When decorated with golden dragons, peacock or phoenix, then it is called longfeng gua (龙凤褂).
